Countryside Chic by V.B.

As luscious girls about town it is unlikely we give the countryside a second thought; far too busy looking splendid on the tube. However as this A/W has prooved a look inspired by the farmer's wife can be sophisticated and quirky and work as well in the city as in the country.

Blake Lively is continuing to emerge as a key figure in fashion, experimenting with lots of different styles and looking stunning in whatever she wears. Her branch out to countryside chic demonstrates that you do not need to go top-to-toe tweed to work the look, with a key item such as her waistcoat paying homage to the Shires.

The countryside look can be overdone (see below!) however certain pieces and looks do have an eccentric charm. The opportunity for your gent to sport some striking knee high socks or dashing riding boots is not to be sniffed at. This style also offers the chance to bring in some fur accents, such as collers, which add a touch of glamour and class whilst maintaining an overall smart and subtle look.

The trouser suit was given a countryside twist on the catwalk and whilst this may be too farmer Giles for you there are still fashion moments to be had. Remove the tweed jacket and the waistcoat and trousers would look brilliant with a feminine blouse or camisolle. Or conversly keep the jacket and try it with skinny jeans and T-shirt for a Hackney twist on the farmer look.

Go on, give tweed a chance!

Keep it Modo people ;)

Denim; a fashion staple? By R.O.

SO here we are in winter 2009, on the cusp of the second decade of the new millennium. I'm sure we could all think of a few adjectives to describe fashion in our time; 'fickle', 'fast', perhaps 'ever-changing'? I'm sure that one of the last ways you would think of describing fashion would surely be with words like 'stable' and 'constant'? Yet these are words that could be used to describe the continuing presence of denim in our wardrobes.

I have always been interested in denim; from purchasing far too many denim items as a misguided teen, to insisting on studying the infrastructure of its industry for my IBSc dissertation. I find it fascinating; I can’t think of any item other than the humble pair of denim jeans which could be considered a necessary item of clothing in almost every decade since it was invented. But why is this? In this post I am going to concentrate on standard denim jeans.

History

To understand the history of denim is perhaps the key to its appeal. Denim cloth originated from a location in France, therefore 'de' Nîmes became 'denim'. It is important to distinguish between denim, a material which can be made into any colour, and blue jeans. Although both have been enduring, blue denim jeans are the more popular of the two.

Denim was most famously incorporated into dungarees as a uniform for American factory workers and railroad workers in the 1800s, as in the picture below.

Interestingly enough, the name for dungarees comes from Dongari Killa, India, where this type of clothing was originally fashioned in the 1600s. From here to usage in America’s working population, denim was then incorporated into popular culture and eventually into mainstream clothing. Its popularity was spearheaded by the winning combination of jeans with leather as a rebel statement, characterised in the 1950s by film stars such as Marlon Brando and James Dean. From rebel to a symbol of casualness; in the G20 protests, bankers in London’s ‘City mile’ were advised not to wear their usual uniform of suits. They subsequently wore denim jeans in order to look ‘casual’. This is what I think makes denim jeans so interesting; they have symbolised the working force, the rebel youth, and now are a symbol of the conventional norm for all ages.

The appeal in celebrity

Of course, as with all fashion, the popularity is both precipitated and continued by its popularity in the celebrity sector. Every high street trend is usually preceded by a celebrity showcasing a new style of clothing. Unfortunately for the true fashionista, since Kate Moss was pictured in her skinnies and Uggs, little else has prevailed on the high street. Even with small waves of popularity for other styles (flares have been trying to make a comeback for many seasons now), it is due to the power of celebrity that skinny jeans are still the flavour of the moment in 2009.

Denim Jeans Styles

Of course, with an item which has lasted through so many decades, many different styles of denim jeans have existed. From flares to skinnies; straight leg to bootcut; jeggings to capris, there is a style for everyone. I personally am an advocate for different styles; I think that the saddest renaissance of the denim jeans has been in the late Noughties. Beware of the skinny, it does not suit everyone, and contrary to popular belief, it does not automatically suit those who are extremely slender either (I have noticed that my legs closely resemble Twiglets when cast in a pair of skinnies).

And apart from the styles themselves there are the colours! For a smart look, deep indigo is choice of preference, contrasting nicely with the stonewash favoured by American cowboys. Or how about the distressed and bleached fashions in favour in the early Noughties? It’s all there for you to peruse. The brilliance of denim jeans is that they are appropriate for almost any situation...And this is what I believe makes denim jeans my favourite pair of clothing; it is definitely the most VERSATILE piece of clothing you can buy!

Keep it MODO people!

This Saturday - The Affordable Vintage Fair comes to London

Sustainable Studios 65 - 71 Scrutton Street, EC2A 4PJ

CHECK IT OUT:

http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=174263176450&index=1

Leggings: A Cultural Phenomenon? by K.R.

I've never really understood the whole leggings craze.

I can see that they represent a subtle but steadfast return to 80's fashion and certainly there are aspects of that look that appeals to me.  On some people they look really chic yet laidback.  However the majority of the time - mostly I suppose at the beginning of this decade - leggings were ubiquitously worn by Essex girls, half way up the calf and paired with a denim mini skirt, which quite frankly, makes me shudder in disgust.

But most recently leggings have become a wardrobe basic of most women across Britain, and indeed, the world.  Our obsession with The Skinny (skinny jeans, skinny legs, skinny body) has grown exponentially into a shrunken, shrink-wrapped trouser.  Maybe the noughties has, in fact, been the decade of the legs.

Furthermore, the 'fashionable' masses have clung to leggings, diversifying them to justify these glorified pair of tights as something worth investing in: shiny, sequined, ripped (in-keeping with another trend-hate of mine: Balmainia a la Alice Dellal) and most recently, faux denim.

 But what I really don't understand is the WAY people wear them.  Originally worn under skirts and dresses, leggings had all the appeal of ultra-thick tights (so cosy in winter), but nowadays leggings are worn more often as trousers.  Indeed, they are the new trousers.

This is the most puzzling.  In a world so obsessed with body shape, in which every fashion spread and advertisement plugs us with body insecurities and tells us we can never be too thin, how is it that leggings have become such a huge, not trend, but staple?  Is this not a paradox?

Perhaps leggings in fact thus represent a shift towards a merging of comfort with style; women now pair snug leggings with oversized tees and tunic tops, covering all manner of sins, yet inject a sense of haute couture with towering heels. (Check look of the day 68 for the Ultimate Heels to pair with leggings: http://amlul.com/).

So perhaps fashion has conceded to let us have a bit of comfort and conveys a sense of realism about women's body shapes and how women want to look - whether you're an Olsen twin or not, there is a way for you to work leggings and look damn hot doing it.

But essentially fashion will never be fashion unless it's paired with skyscraper heels...

Keep it Modo people ;)

All images courtesy of Google images.

Vintage Knits and Coats the Outerwear Style-choice of the Season? - S.V.

Winter has struck and we have already covered a massive range of heat saving items that are great for our wardrobes like earmuffs, tights and snoods! Inspired by the sustainable fashion theme we have got going this month, I have been on the lookout for how people can employ this eco-friendly take on the the streets - and have not been disappointed.

This week I wanted to write about something I found quite interesting, noticing a massive return of those old knits that people used to push at the back of the closet, in a new trend about keeping warm, old-school style.

   
Maybe, it's just me, but for the past couple of years I have slowly been losing faith in the high street to deliver quality, affordable knits in materials that for once, are not acrylic and will actually keep me warm. Being a mere 4'11", one of the only things I learnt from Biology class was that I was small, had a bigger surface area to volume ratio and that meant that I was in for many cold winters! Of course, layering is a great way to save heat but it can often be tedious when all you really want to do is chuck on a huge snuggly sweater and leave the house.

We want to feel like this:

But lately, all of the knitwear I have bought has still made me feel more like this:

 

Which brings me back to my point - Vintage knitwear. It is of increasing frequency, especially this year, that I step outside of my flat in East London and see most of the student-chic fashionistas rocking their dad's old jumpers....or, well, someone's old jumpers at least. Obviously the large number of thrift shops (a few of which have still managed to stay reasonably priced despite the ridiculous tourist-trap most of the East has become) in the area seem to contribute to this recycling but the look is definitely spreading and it is certainly not an isolated trend.

Personally, I think it is great. I love the look and feel of an oversized jumper, and I think the days are gone when people dread that one terrible Christmas present they are bound to recieve, in the form of a woolen mistake. Now I think that old jumper is to be cherished, and have without a doubt found that the older ones tend to be much more wool-heavy than the newer ones. I suppose I could be seen as generalising, but talking from my experiences,  I really can't help but find that the only recent high street knits I have faith in to keep me warm have not been the most cost effective on an impoverished student budget :-)

So, basically, what I am trying to say is that I think recycled jumpers are the unsung heroes of the season. Much of the vintage stuff is great quality and truly warm, and would make a great addition to any winter wardrobe! There are very few which are truly unnacceptable, but those ghosts of the past are never really seen haunting the streets, its a really easy thing to pull off! I always think an oversized old jumper is a great look with leggings or drainpipes and adds a dose of 80s nostalgia into the winter season. 

  

A bit of...80's nostalgia...;-)

...and....even the most dubious looking knit can be tranformed!

They can be found anywhere from your own house, in the form of the unwanted property of a relative, to maybe a knit you have seen in a new light and of course, the local charity shops. So give it a go, and pick up your own. It is bound to keep you warm this holiday!

Keep it MODO people ;-)

A Sustainable Xmas Gift Guide, by M.O.

Handmade gifts are Works of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction. They have a unique and personal feel to them, and time and care invested in them rather than just money. Especially in the festive season, which at least in theory is about sharing joy with your loved ones, that counts so much. Making a gift for someone accounts for a lot more than just tradition. I think that even if it's not perfect "quality" or not as super spectacular as you could wish, it's still awesome like no purchased good can be. It comes with a strong message of love/care/affection. And anti-consumerism! Did you know yesterday was Buy Nothing Day? Did you know the book Handmade Nation is now also a movie? Did you know you could avoid massive terrible crowds in the streets and make all or most* of your gifts for friends and family? And that it would be awesome?

*I feel like books are exempted from this rule of make rather than buy. I firmly believe it's ok to buy books, and really great to read them. Though of course if you made books too, I'm sure it would be the ultimate awesome gift for anyone.

Note: for your supplies, try Freecycle for maximum non-buying effect.


EMBELLISHMENTS
See the post below for a bunch of ideas on embellishments. The embellish-your-tights tutorial is sheer brilliance!

But you can find a garment, any garment, and make it beautiful. Use old clothes, charity shop clothes, street-found clothes, whatever. A top trendy suggestion would be to add studs.

LACE

Lace is another top hot tip. Used as an embellishment is one, but you could really go to town and make a lace collar/necklace. You only need: a long piece of lace, or a few shorter ones to combine, a fastening of some sort, and needle + thread. You could sew the collar onto a shirt or dress, but having it as a self-standing item allows you to wear it with many things - all you need to figure out is the fastening. It could be all fancy and jewellery-like (and haberdasheries will have the equipment you need for making it work), or simple button-casual, or even long enough to not need a proper fastening - just make sure your head fits through. For inspiration, have a look at this etsy shop.

lace necklace by MillicentRussell

FABRIC JEWELLERY

 
collars by Mertxe Hernández

You can also branch out into fabric collars/necklaces that are not necessarily lace. It's a really good accessory, and you could make it just by putting bits of fabric together on one longer piece of fabric that would hang from your neck. Catalan designer Mertxe Hernández makes ones like that - basically a bunch of vertical fabric strips sewn to a straight collar. There's also these two stunning collars/necklaces on etsy:

 

Did you get my mail Spam Neck Piece by squillinan

  

The Windsor - ruffle necklace with rope by louloudo

SNOODS

Snoods are all the rage this season! Even if you are not an experienced knitter, making a simple one should be super easy. Just knit a plain piece that's long enough to go around your neck and sew the ends together to form a tube. The lucky attendees of last week's knitting and crochet workshop should have no trouble with that. But if in doubt, ask Sophie or Katie! (Also look at this etsy shop).

BOOK COVERS

 

Make a paper or fabric book cover. Here's a tutorial how to make one from a t-shirt, but you can use any fabric, and even print on it. Obviously same goes to paper.

a nice set from Book City Jackets

PRINT ON FABRIC

 

On the topic of printing: IRON TRANSFERS. There's lots around (like the gorgeous Sukie set), but you can also make your own. Here's a video. You just need access to an inkjet printer and some transfer paper. Then you can put it on any cotton-based fabric: t-shirt, top, hoodie, dress, cotton bag, pillowcase, curtain, fabric book cover, fabric necklace/collar, the list goes on.

CROSS STITCH

Or "xstitch". It's very easy, and very cool. If in doubt, consult online videos. Make up your own patterns (pixelate pictures), or use ready ones - my heartfelt recommendation is Radical Cross Stitch (Radical Rags on etsy).

 

Anti-Patriarchy E-Pattern from Radical Cross Stitch

 

Question Authority E-Pattern from Radical Cross Stitch

Alternatively, if you don't have time to make your own gifts, buy stuff other people made. It won't be extremely anti-consumerist and a bit less I-love-you-look-I-made-you-this, but is still pretty awesome. The item will still have tme and care invested in it, and you support crafters who made it. Some ideas:

 

tattoons by Lizz Lizz

Lizz Lunney draws a lot of amazing stuff and puts it in comic books and onto postcards, pocket mirrors, bookmarks, badges, and even tattoons. See her website shop and etsy shop for more.

 

 

things by Hannah Makes Things

Hannah makes things with love in Manchester. She is like Tatty Devine, minus the super overpricage. I bought her purple button earrings on Sunday Upmarket over two years ago, and they are still my most favourite earrings ever. I like the look of this robot necklace. The measuring tape also comes in shape of a brooch. The lips are very Mae West by Dalí.

upcycled knickers and headband drawing by Pretty Green

I already blogged about Clare of Pretty Green. She has an amazing custom lingerie upcycling service. Tell her a bit about the person for whom the gift is, and she will make you a beautiful pair of knickers or a bra. Tested personally both for myself and as gifts for other people, and it worked brilliantly every time. She also makes knitted headbands to keep your hair in shape for winter, and you can choose colours! Stuff always comes beautifully packed and with a personal note. Clare is a UCL student, has an etsy shop, and also runs a blog.

 

Not technically handmade, but spot-on for sustainable credentials. Do The Green Thing launched an amazing project Glove Love, the objective of which is to re-use single gloves, matching them up into new pairs. You can order a pair online for a fiver, specifying gender and size, but what actual gloves you'll get will be a surprise. You can also donate gloves, and tell The Green Thing their story. Each glove comes with a tag with a name and where it was rescued from. This could be a gift for ANYONE, including distant family members, coworkers, or other people you don't know well enough to make a real cool personalized gift for. And it's universally useful - come winter, anyone would wear gloves. Win on all fronts, for £5.

Happy Crafting
and keep it Modo people ;)

Why my love affair with Embellishments continues - S.V.

So: many people have this thing where they claim very adamantly to dislike ‘fuss’. As if there is something wrong in having a penchant to sparkly, spangly luxury. From personal experience however, I find that what people say and what people are actually attracted to are two different things! I for instance succumb fully to it, the more sparkle, the better (okay, within reason) and naturally as a self-confessed magpie my joy was great in realising embellishments were still in style this winter.

My question is why do people love sparkle? Why is there a need to jazz up otherwise ‘simple’ outfits? First of all, I think the idea of fantasy is a key player. We have grown up in a culture that is constantly alluding to the land of make believe and fairytales. The idea of princesses and faeries is one that is still prevalent in our culture, and it is these associations we make when we think of jewels, sequins, beads etc.

In short, embellishment means wealth, it means opulence and mysticism. There is something exotic about rich fabrics studded with beads and jewels and things that draw attention to the outfit and its wearer. There are connotations of luxury when we think of this, which is something that is a constant throughout history also. Whether it be a Russian Tsarina, a Tudor queen or an Indian Maharani, the portraits are all the same; these people in positions of power covered from head to toe in the most expensive and eye-catching minerals of the earth:

Designers for centuries have been fascinated by the creation of these beautiful things, from Charles Fabergé’s extraordinary eggs and the fabulous Cartier necklace commissioned for the Indian Patiala family in the 19th century to modern day detailing from all the huge names.Obviously then, there would be a natural transition of jewels on clothes....

Perhaps it is the versatility of embellishment – its ability to completely transform an outfit’s mood and style that this interest is rooted in. This can clearly be seen in this picture from Italian vogue where the mirrors and studs add a really edgy and rock-chick angle to the look. Whereas in the picture next to it, the same mirrors give off an exotic far-eastern radiance:

Perhaps it is the break away from the historical sensibilities of austere, strict and simple dressing, often associated with certain 17th and 18th century groups, or Arthur Miller’s The Crucible (we all know what happened there) - the escapism embellishment provides externalises its appeal. Whatever the reason, it is one trend that I don’t think will go anywhere, or if it does, will come back very soon. There is only so much interest that lies in clean lines!

One of the hardest things to do is to recreate the look of opulence and find cheap embellished garments. Often the high street and designers think the more shit you stick on an outfit the more you can charge for it. However it is so easy to embellish your own clothes with a bit of well-placed sequin trim or appliqué. This is a great tutorial that shows how to embellish your own tights: [Click!] 

There are also a few books on it like [Fine Embellishment Techniques: Classic Details for Today’s Clothing] by Jane Conlon. One of my favourite places to go is East Ham market (left from the tube station, main entrance next to the Sainsbury's) to find bits of trim and beading. There is a great stall left of the fishmongers where everything is really reasonably priced. Alternatively any good fabric shop has a great section for ribbons and beads etc. With the right level of sparkle, any outfit can be totally transformed and the best and most rewarding thing is that you have done it yourself, and the possibilities are endless!

Keep it MODO people ;-)