Showing posts with label recycling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label recycling. Show all posts

Sunday, 16 January 2011

Sustainable can be luxurious!

Trash need not always look trashy; an increasing amount of swish stuff is actually produced from recycled or upcycled materials. Aysia Wright wrote a piece for Planet Green some time ago with 10 examples of things that are 'just as pristine and perform just as well as their non-recycled counterparts,' a proof that sustainability never has to interfere with luxurious aesthetics or first-class quality. Below are some additions to that list (which, by the way, you should definitely check out: I would copy and paste it here in its entirety if it wasn't bad manners: 10 Closet Worthy Picks That Don't Look Recycled But Are. Trashion At Its Best by Aysia Wright).



Elvis & Kresse - reusing fire hoses





 

Elvis & Kresse make beautiful objects from a variety of waste: scrap sail clothes, used Air Traffic Control flight strips, closed cell foam, or parachute silk, but their most striking, signature material is genuine de-commissioned British fire brigade hose. They collect it across the UK, 'scrub away all the soot, grease, and everything else that builds up after 25 years of active life-saving duty,' and refashion into bags, purses, wallets, ipod holders, etc. Fire hoses are durable, but after service condemned to landfill. To date, Elvis and Kresse have rescued 40 tonnes of hose destined for that fate. And in order to thank Britain’s Brigades, 50% of their profits go back to the Fire Fighters Charity. They've featured in Vogue and stock at Harrods. A glorious mix of sustainable, innovative, pretty, and luxurious.


Goodone - good cuts








Goodone is an award-winning independent label which uses upcycled garments in their very high-end stuff. Using reclaimed fabrics in very creative ways, they do flattering AND interesting panelling. Their commitment to sustainability is strong: they claim that if every Briton purchased one item made from recycled wool each year, it would save 371 million gallons of water, 480 tones of chemical dyes, and 4571 million days of an average family’s electricity days. They 'aim not to stand apart from the mainstream fashion industry, rather to achieve positive change from within.' Founder and creative director Nin Castle is tutoring on the Sustainable Fashion course at St. Martins. Excellent on the sustainability as well as the fashion forward front. And they're launching a collection for Tesco at the end of January!


Retrouve - made from found objects only





Retrouve is an upcycled jewellery line from the excellent second hand shop Bang Bang exchange (which I wrote about some time ago). Designer Jo Whelan creates unique, bold pieces from reject or excess chain store jewellery that would otherwise be thrown away (last year 27 tonnes of costume jewellery went into landfill: unsold stock, breakages, faulty goods). Vintage components are used, but Retrouve's aesthetic is determinedly contemporary rather than retro. Whelan says 'designs are refreshed and infused with value and love ... In our current consumer culture things that are out of fashion or broken are disposed of often in environmentally irresponsible ways, Retrouve with it's make-do-and-mend philosophy is both eco-friendly and stylish, creating pieces that will be loved for longer.' They also offer a service reworking your old jewellery and custom designs. Future plans include workshops on making your own retrouve pieces.

Sunday, 14 February 2010

TRASH by M.O.

Exactly two weeks left until the UCLU Modo Green Fashion Show! 28th February 2010, 6:30pm - 9:30pm, The Hotel Russell, 1 - 8 Russell Square, Bloomsbury, London, UK. Buy your tickets!



Trash is always an issue in Greenery - two of the three Rs: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle imply dealing with trash one way or another. Fashion is no exception, whether you consider regular trash as potential material, manipulate old clothes, or recycle trends and silhouettes.

BOTTLES
A few extraordinary ideas on how to use the surplus plastic bottles. Normally, it's good to buy one and re-fill it with drinking water.

Evian Bottle Dress by Kristen Fahrig

Bottle Dress in Museum of Contemporary Art, Nice, France (photo via John Elmslie)

Down sweater from Patagonia made of recycled bottles


Bottle Dress (glass, cork, water, plastic, leather), 1999, by Cat Chow

flattened bottle cap dress by Danica Olders (Rustik)

BAGS
Fabric or re-usable bags for shopping; if impossible: paper rather than plastic.. Turns out that so far the plain black trash bag has been the most inspiring as a piece of clothing.



Vivienne Westwood

Dolce & Gabbana

 
 
Whitehouse Fashion and Design students:

Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton bin liner bag (worth about $2,000)

+ not quite a trash bag:
 
 
IKEA bag dress by Adriana Valdez Young


GREEN MCQUEEN
The Art of Recycling and The Throw-Away Habits of The Fashion Industry (A/W 2009) - a show taking place in an arranged junkyard, with broken glass floor and old props piled up in the middle. Hats of stacked umbrellas, plastic wrap, garbage bags, lamps and car parts, and clothes mimicking classic designs (like Dior's New Look) and their reinventions made in the last years, also by McQueen - all to expose the bizarre mechanism of hailing novelty which in fact is just a piece of same old. So subtle, so bold. “This whole situation is such a cliché. The turnover of fashion is just so quick and so throwaway [...] There is no longevity” said McQueen. A ten minute silence.

 Hendrik Kerstens Bag, 2007 
Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize 2008 (2nd Prize) 

 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
 

 
 giant bubblewrap cape/coat


 

Sunday, 15 November 2009

Sustainable Fashion - hippy/hip? by M.O.

cover of October's Eco World Fashion Magazine - the DIY issue

Green is trendy and all that, but a lot of the time 'ethical', 'eco', or 'organic' bring to mind images of off-white canvas, long shapeless skirts, and other aesthetically dubious tree-hugging connotations. Similarly to feminism, the term is used vaguely, too much, and often condescendingly. It kinda makes me feel a bit sick. Sustainable fashion is serious business, but just as much glamour and style as anything else (on that note: did anyone get anything from the Jimmy Choo for H&M scramble? I always underestimate people's fierceness and motivation to queue). The fact that there's a slight moral premise to it doesn't mean that everyone wearing organic cotton will look at everyone else not wearing it like they are criminal idiots. Another parallel comes to mind - that of vegetarianism or veganism. It's true that some people think that shit like that makes them superior, and will as a consequence look down on everyone else, but it's not a movement relying on the existence of assholes in the world. Neither is sustainability, so it doesn't deserve the automatic reactionary treatment. Whether recycled, vintage, or diy, style is still style, and hence controversial, unforgiving, and a lot of work.

good



bad

It is true that some very noble initiatives are more on the funny, or cutesy, or downright pastoral side. The popular thing of making bags out of billboards is pretty cool, but no matter how fancy the designs, it will always work best on messenger-type sporty/urban pieces, channeling foreign typography and skateboarding/surfing style at best. I'm not saying it's ugly - it's just a very specific style - very low-brow&pop culture. In that context, I think it really works, but I find the transgressive attempts quite tiring. Rather than trying to outdo themselves to make loudly printed vinyl look business-like or feminine, recycled banner designers could branch out into other products, for example furniture (excellent examples by the Barcelona-based company Vaho: chairs, and even flower pots)






Stuff like Ecoist candy wrapper bags is exactly the kind of thing that in my opinion firmly ties sustainability to a bit of a crap/pop fest. The design may be durable or inventive, but it's hard to get genuinely excited about the aesthetics. It's more like something you buy if you're a teenager on a schooltrip, or as a ~funny~ gift for someone you don't know very well.


Making graduation gowns out of plastic bottles is so genius, so hilarious, so sweet and so tacky at the same time. Possibly the epitome of sustainable non-style (but for other reasons, very compelling!)


Moving onto stylish stuff: things made by TRAID (Textile Designing for Aid and International Development) are awesome. Their label TRAIDremade "design and produce gorgeous clothing for women and men using second hand textiles that would otherwise be thrown away". They really say it all themselves: "Each piece is a complete one off and sustainably remade by hand in our workshop beside the seaside in Brighton". Please admire, pictured above, one of the super limited edition of gorgeous eco bags designed exclusively for Timberland and in stock now at Timberland Regent Street and Fournier Street. TRAID Flagship shops in Brighton and Camden, more on this list.


Junky Styling is the home of "timeless, deconstructed, re-cut and completely transformed clothing." Take a moment to look through their massive galleries of proper catwalk shows, with mens- and womenswear. The label was set up by two best friends, Annika Sanders and Kerry Seage, who were club scene stars in the early 90s, and decided to transfer their talent into business "after extensive travels as skint teenagers" and "countless compliments on their clothing". They have a shop in East London, a custom order service, a walk-in wardrobe surgery and a book about it.


Fashion Conscience's slogan is "Seriously stylish, seriously ethical". "Eco fashion never looked so good": my point exactly. They have gorgeous pieces sorted into organic, vegan, sustainable, fairtrade, recycled. And everything looks brilliantly chic.


In two week's time I'll post about Christmas gift ideas; until then, keep it Modo people ;)